TINSEL FILLED ORNAMENTS
As a general rule I don’t like tinsel, but there are a few less obvious ways to incorporate it into Christmas decorating.
SUPPLIES
Glass ball ornaments
Tinsel
Ornament hooks
Step 1 – Remove the cap of the ornament
Step 2 – Fill the ornament with a little or a lot of tinsel, and cut off the excess.
Step 3 – Replace the ornament cap and hang on the tree.
Enjoy xx
There’s no denying it’s autumn when all the leaves start to turn is it? From green to yellow, to orange, to red, to brown and into black. It’s one of my favourite times of year so why not bring a little of the outdoors in with this super easy project.
SUPPLIES
Autumn leaves
Frame
Hot glue gun
Step 1 – Collect a bundle of fallen leaves and divide into several colour groups; green, yellow, orange, brown, red, black etc.
Step 2 – Select a leaf or two from each colour group and arrange onto the frame backing board. You may need to remove a few stems to help the leaves to lay flat.
Step 3 – Once you’re happy with the design, use a hot glue gun to adhere the leaves in place.
Step 4 – Secure into the frame and you’re done.
NOTE: After framing the leaves continue to change colour as they dry out.
Enjoy xx
So far I’ve done tutorials for a DIY Doily Mousepad and a DIY Doily Pencil Cup in an effort to beautify my office space. It was time to take things up a notch….
I have an old Toshiba laptop, and although functionality wise it’s never missed a beat, let’s get one thing straight. It ain’t no glossy white Mac. And my budget right now simply does not extend to purchasing one.
So how about a brilliant idea to give it a makeover. Mac style. Or as I like to call it, pimp your tech!
SUPPLIES
Laptop
Masking/painters tape
Scap paper
X-acto knife
ESP (or any other suitable surface
primer)
Spray paint, colour of your
choice
Clear acrylic spray
Step 1 – First remove any dirt or greasy finger marks from anywhere you intend to paint, by using a surface primer. I used a product called ESP, purchased from a local hardware store and simply followed their instructions. It was more or less a wipe on, wipe off deal.
Step 2 – Using the masking/painters tape, carefully cover any area you do not want painted. It may seem like a lot of tape, but seriously go crazy with it. You want to make sure everything is well covered, taking particular care to seal any vents and ports.
HOT TIP: Use scrap paper to cover larger areas such as the screeen and keyboard. You’ll feel less guilty about the horrendous amount to tape you’re using and it’ll save a whole lot of time. See, not just a pretty face…
Step 3 – Now you’re ready to spray on your first coat of colour. Granted you may be packing it a little. It’s the moment of no return right? I suspect you’ll also have an ‘OMG what have I done’ moment after that very first coat, just as I did, but go on, just DO IT!
Allow to dry for approximately one hour (or as per directions).
Step 4 – Apply any additional coats required, allowing to dry completely between each one.
Step 5 – Now you can apply a coat of clear acrylic. Allow to dry for approximately one hour (or as per directions). Apply a second coat to finish. Allow to dry completely.
Step 6 – Carefully remove the tape and voila! One perfectly painted laptop.
Here is the second instalment of my DIY Desk Accessories tutorials. And you see, I’ve used that not so awful after all vinyl runner again so it matches my lovely DIY Doily Pencil Cup.
SUPPLIES
Mousepad
Vinyl doily runner
Mod podge
Spray paint, colour of your choice
Foam brush
X-acto knife
Step 1 – Spray a couple of even coats of coloured spray paint onto your mousepad. I used white. It took three coats all up to cover the print on mine.
Step 2 – Using the foam brush, paint an even layer of mod podge onto the mousepad.
Step 3 – Quickly place the vinyl on, positioning the pattern where you think it looks best.
Step 4 – Allow to dry completely.
Step 4 – Turn the mousepad face down onto a cutting mat and trim away any excess vinyl.
And there you have it, a super easy and chic new mousepad.
When I started organising my office space, the first thing I struggled to find was desk accessories I liked. Even if it is only a pencil cup, I still wanted one that was unique and reflected my personal style.
Now, before you cringe at the thought of using a vinyl table runner/tablecloth (let’s face it, most of them are rather hideous) this stuff actually kills it in the craft department. I bought half a yard of it just before Christmas and it’s almost all gone. I’ve incorporated it into a couple of projects (of which you’ll get to see too) and am still coming up with ideas.
SUPPLIES
Clear pencil cup
Vinyl doily runner
Adhesive felt
X-acto knife
Spray adhesive
Step 1 – Measure the circumference of your pencil cup and cut the vinyl to size. As it’s important to match the finishing ends as close as possible, you can always trial wrap the vinyl around the cup before cutting it.
Step 2 – Cut a piece of the felt to fit inside the cup. Remove the adhesive backing and press it onto the base. This stops the pens/pencils marking the bottom of the cup and erases any ‘hollow’ sound when you put them in.
Step 3 – Spray an even coat of adhesive onto the vinyl and wrap it around the cup, making sure it stays centered between the base edge and the rim. Allow to dry before use.
Enjoy xx
I bought this braid from M & J Trim in New York way back in March, when Amanda & I were on holiday together. Amazingly it’s the only thing I walked out of there with…but for anyone who hasn’t been there, just check out what I was up against here. And that was just one wall. I could have gone CRAZY.
Anyway, I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it…I just had to wait impatiently for the weather to warm up.
Step 1 – Match the two straight sides of the braid, slightly overlapping one onto the other. Stitch together.
NOTE: If your braid is already one symmetrical piece, you move straight onto Step 2.
Step 2 – Determine the centre of the neckline and place a pin. Repeat for the hemline and also at several intervals between, using the side seams as your guide.
Centre the braid on the neckline over the pin and re.jpgn to secure it in place. Continue down the tee, re.jpgnning the braid at the marked intervals and at the hemline.
Step 3 – Using a straight stitch, carefully sew down the centreline of the braid, removing the pins as you go.
Step 4 – Trim the excess braid to about one inch in length and fold over the neckline and hemline and pin in place.
Step 5 – Sew approximately 1/4 inch in from the neckline and hemline to secure the braid.
Enjoy xx
Thankfully I’ve been blessed with strong healthy nails (despite the battering they get on a keyboard all day, and let’s not forget riding, feeding and rugging a horse, gardening etc) but once a week it only takes a quick 10 step basic manicure to help keep them that way. I also love the fact that it feels like I’m really spoiling myself, without the expense of visiting a salon.
For a fresh clean look use a nude coloured polish. I have used Step Right Up by O.P.I purely because I love their polishes and I have an embarrasingly large collection!
SUPPPLIES
Nail file
Buffing board
Cuticle stick
Nail clippers and trimmers
Moisturing hand soap
Cuticle oil
Base coat
Nail polish
Top coat
HOT TIP: Up until recently I completely underrated the importance of Step 3. Can I tell you it has made all the difference in a longer lasting, shinier finish to my manicure.
Enjoy xx
Not only are these tile coasters a fun and inexpensive weekend project, but bound with twine or ribbon and they double as a lovely homemade gift for someone….or yourself if you can’t part with them!
SUPPLIES
Tiles (3.5″ x 3.5″ squares)
Decorative paper prints (3.25″ x 3.25″ squares)
Cork sheet (3.25″ x 3.25″ squares)
Foam brush
Mod podge
Clear acrylic spray
Step 1 – Using the foam brush, paint an even layer of mod podge onto the tile.
Step 2 – Centre the print onto the tile and press down firmly to eliminate any air pockets. Allow to dry completely.
Step 3 – Paint an even layer of mod podge onto tile and allow to dry completely.
Step 4 – Following the manufacturers instructions, spray an even coat of clear acrylic onto the tile and allow to dry completely (overnight preferably). Repeat again for a second and final coat.
Step 5 – Spread an even layer of mod podge onto a cork square and adhere it to the reverse side of the tile. Allow to dry completely before use.
Enjoy xx
So here it is, my very first tutorial to share with you. Very exciting.
Just before leaving for our LA and New York holiday, I knitted a lovely winter infinity scarf to take with me using a knitting loom. Amanda and I had had a much smaller version when we were children, and I was rather surprised to see that over 20 years later they are still around. Mine cost less than $10 from my local craft store, and there were several different shapes and sizes available.
I quickly discovered however that the instructions supplied with mine had a misprint. After some trial and error I eventually figured out the technique, and thought this tutorial might be useful to other ‘first time’ loom knitters.
I loved how quick and easy it was once I got the hang of it, and the pattern is really pretty – it’s actually reversible, rather than a knit effect on one side and a purl on the other.
NOTE: In this tutorial I have used two strands of yarn simultaneously, which results in a much thicker effect. If you decide to only use one thick strand of yarn, the method is exactly the same, the only difference is instead of four loops around each peg, yours will have two.
SUPPLIES
Rectangular knitting loom
Loom hook or crochet hook
Yarn (I used 2 balls 8 ply weighing 85g each for this project)
Scissors
Step 1 – Make a slip knot and place it around peg X, leaving approx 5 inches of yarn so you can weave it back through once finished. Then take the yarn across to peg 1.
Step 2 – Wrap the yarn clockwise around peg 1 and take across to peg 2.
Step 3 – Wrap the yarn anti clockwise around peg 2 and take across to peg 3.
Continue wrapping each peg in the figure 8 pattern until you reach the desired width of your scarf. For mine I only wrapped 14 of the 18 available pegs.
Step 4 – After wrapping the final even numbered peg, bring the yarn across to the second last odd number and hold.
Step 5 – Push the yarn down on each wrapped peg so that the loops are at the base.
Step 6 – Wrap the yarn anti clockwise around the last odd numbered peg, creating a second loop of yarn around it. Now take across to the second last even numbered peg.
NOTE: The last even numbered peg will not have a second loop.
Step 7 – Wrap the yarn clockwise around the second last even numbered peg and take across to the second last odd numbered peg.
Continue wrapping each peg in the figure 8 pattern, working back towards the first peg.
Step 8 – After wrapping peg 1, take the yarn across between peg 2 and 4 and hold.
Step 10 – Push the yarn down again on each wrapped peg so the loops are at the base. This is your first row completed.
To continue the pattern simply repeat steps 3, 4, 9 and 10 to complete each row (when working from left to right as mentioned above in step 9). After a few rows you can undo the slip knot created in step 1.
To finish…
Once you have reached the desired length of your scarf (mine is approx 42 inches and a reasonably snug fit) and there is only one loop around each peg, cut the wrapping yarn off leaving a few inches. Using the loom hook (or crochet hook) start at the end opposite to the yarn tail and lift the loop off the odd numbered peg onto the crochet hook. Go to the even numbered peg and lift that loop off onto the loom hook as well.
There will now be two yarn loops on the loom hook.
Pull the first loop (closest to your hand) over the second loop.
Repeat this all the way down the loom until you reach the end. Pull the wrapping yarn through the last loop with the loom hook, pull snugly and weave the remaining yarn into the finished project. Now join the two ends with a flat seam using the same coloured yarn.
To wear, I give mine a quick twist before slipping over my head for a cozy, snug fit.
Enjoy!
FLAT SEAM HOW TO:
